Materials: Difference between revisions
baking anodized flashlights
(stainless can be as low as 11% chromium; mention unobtainium) |
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Anodizing can be removed with strong alkali. People have had luck using a product called Greased Lightning, a degreaser widely available in the US (after removing switches o-rings, reflector, glass, etc.). Then they polish it on a buffing wheel with a metal polish called Rouge. The result is glossy, shiny, easily scratched aluminum. Either clear coat or a product called Sharkhide can be used to keep the shine from becoming dull. Here are some examples: [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7357 DRY], [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7734 Ultrafire UF-980L], and [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7737 Solarforce L2i]. It is much easier to remove Type II anodizing than Type III. | Anodizing can be removed with strong alkali. People have had luck using a product called Greased Lightning, a degreaser widely available in the US (after removing switches o-rings, reflector, glass, etc.). Then they polish it on a buffing wheel with a metal polish called Rouge. The result is glossy, shiny, easily scratched aluminum. Either clear coat or a product called Sharkhide can be used to keep the shine from becoming dull. Here are some examples: [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7357 DRY], [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7734 Ultrafire UF-980L], and [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7737 Solarforce L2i]. It is much easier to remove Type II anodizing than Type III. | ||
Flashlights with Type II anodizing can also be broiled in an oven for 15 minutes to an hour to change black anodizing to purple, brown, or orange. Again, remove all glass, o-rings, circuits, switches, etc. before baking. Type III anodizing does not change colors as much. See this [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7417 BLF thread] for results. | |||
== Stainless Steel == | == Stainless Steel == | ||