Materials: Difference between revisions
minor tweak
(baking anodized flashlights) |
(minor tweak) |
||
| Line 17: | Line 17: | ||
Anodizing can be removed with strong alkali. People have had luck using a product called Greased Lightning, a degreaser widely available in the US (after removing switches o-rings, reflector, glass, etc.). Then they polish it on a buffing wheel with a metal polish called Rouge. The result is glossy, shiny, easily scratched aluminum. Either clear coat or a product called Sharkhide can be used to keep the shine from becoming dull. Here are some examples: [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7357 DRY], [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7734 Ultrafire UF-980L], and [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7737 Solarforce L2i]. It is much easier to remove Type II anodizing than Type III. | Anodizing can be removed with strong alkali. People have had luck using a product called Greased Lightning, a degreaser widely available in the US (after removing switches o-rings, reflector, glass, etc.). Then they polish it on a buffing wheel with a metal polish called Rouge. The result is glossy, shiny, easily scratched aluminum. Either clear coat or a product called Sharkhide can be used to keep the shine from becoming dull. Here are some examples: [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7357 DRY], [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7734 Ultrafire UF-980L], and [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7737 Solarforce L2i]. It is much easier to remove Type II anodizing than Type III. | ||
Flashlights with Type II anodizing can also be broiled in | Flashlights with Type II anodizing can also be broiled in a kitchen oven for 15 minutes to an hour to change black anodizing to purple, brown, copper, or orange. Again, remove all glass, o-rings, circuits, switches, etc. before baking. Type III anodizing does not change colors as much. See this [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/7417 BLF thread] for results. | ||
== Stainless Steel == | == Stainless Steel == | ||