Difference between revisions of "AVR Drivers"

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AVR Drivers (view source)

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USBASP details is obsolete - no longer applicable for the V2.0 version commonly available

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 ===Flashlight Drivers===
-Of course you will need a flashlight driver circuit board first. The stock driver in some flashlights already has an Atmel driver on board. There are also several NANJG drivers available that include an Atmel TINY13A chip that can be programmed. These chips can also be locked down so they can't be changed, but so far none seem to be. However, some variants of NANJG drivers use a PIC chip that can not be programmed with AVR tools. See [[Popular drivers]] to see some of the drivers people have been using. Most of these use current regulators to limit the current delivered to the LED while the Atmel chip itself turns the power on and off very quickly, leaving it on for full power, or flashing on and off quickly to simulate a lower mode. As the percentage of off time increases, the light gets dimmer. By setting the on-off cycles to a high frequency, the eye just sees this as a lower mode even when the LED is barely lit. This is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). By slowing the flashing more, you get a visible strobe mode or SOS modes. So essentially the Atmel chip is just a computer-controlled on-off switch.
+Of course you will need a flashlight driver circuit board first. The stock driver in some flashlights already has an Atmel driver on board. There are also several NANJG drivers available that include an Atmel TINY13A chip that can be programmed. ATtiyny13A can also be locked down (low fuse higher than 0x7F) so they can't be changed easily, but so far none seem to be. However, some variants of NANJG drivers use a PIC chip that can not be programmed with AVR tools, as well as Kaidomain driver doesn't use ATtiny13A. See [[Popular drivers]] to see some of the drivers people have been using. Most of these use current regulators to limit the current delivered to the LED while the Atmel chip itself turns the power on and off very quickly, leaving it on for full power, or flashing on and off quickly to simulate a lower mode. As the percentage of off time increases, the light gets dimmer. By setting the on-off cycles to a high frequency, the eye just sees this as a lower mode even when the LED is barely lit. This is called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). By slowing the flashing more, you get a visible strobe mode or SOS modes. So essentially the Atmel chip is just a computer-controlled on-off switch.
 The Atmel ATtiny13A has an 8-bit processor with 1 kb of flash memory, 64 bits of RAM, and 64 bits of EEPROM that can be written several thousand times. There are also settings called "fuses" which can be set or cleared.
 ===Hardware===
+==== Programmer ====
-You will need two pieces of hardware: an AVR ISP '''programmer''' that attaches to your computer's USB port and a clip to attach to the Atmel chip which is already soldered in place.
+You will need two pieces of hardware: an AVR ISP programmer that attaches to your computer's USB port and a clip to attach to the Atmel chip which is already soldered in place.
 [[File:Usbisp.jpg|center|thumb|400px|USB ISP programmer]]
 There are a number of ISP programmers available, including one called USBTinyISP that you can build yourself from a kit. Ironically, it uses an Atmel chip as well which must be programmed before it can be used as a programmer. There are also a number of cheap drivers available on eBay if you search for USBASP. These all look similar with an exposed blue circuit board and cost about $12, usually including a ribbon cable, which you probably won't need.[[File:Soic8clip.jpg|thumb|200px|SOIC 8 clip with wires rearranged]]
+==== SOIC Clip ====
+The other piece of hardware is a SOIC 8 clip to attach to the pins of the Atmel chip on the flashlight driver. There are cheap blue ones on eBay made by Pomona that have been very problematic, but sometimes work. They cost about $12. It is best to get one with a ribbon cable that attaches to pins coming out of the clip. The individual wires of the ribbon cable can be moved to the correct pins for the ISP programmer. See below for the proper configuration. There are [http://cgi.ebay.com/SOIC-8-SOIC8-8-Way-SMD-Programming-Testing-Test-Clip-/380333853764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588daa0c44 more expensive ones on eBay] made by 3M that might work better. These are black, cost about $21, and don't seem to include the cable. The programmer itself includes a cable but you will need some way of connecting the wires in the ribbon cable to the pins sticking out of the clip.
-The other piece of hardware is a '''SOIC 8 clip''' to attach to the pins of the Atmel chip on the flashlight driver. There are cheap blue ones on eBay made by Pomona that have been very problematic, but sometimes work. They cost about $12. It is best to get one with a ribbon cable that attaches to pins coming out of the clip. The individual wires of the ribbon cable can be moved to the correct pins for the ISP programmer. See below for the proper configuration. There are [http://cgi.ebay.com/SOIC-8-SOIC8-8-Way-SMD-Programming-Testing-Test-Clip-/380333853764?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item588daa0c44 more expensive ones on eBay] made by 3M that might work better. These are black, cost about $21, and don't seem to include the cable. The programmer itself includes a cable but you will need some way of connecting the wires in the ribbon cable to the pins sticking out of the clip.
 [[File:DIY_SOIC_Clip.jpg|200px|thumb|right|DIY SOIC 8 Clip]]
@@ Line 30: / Line 29: @@
 '''DIY SOIC clip:''' There is also an option to make the clip yourself from spare parts if you have the time, tools and precision. Translated version with a custom PCB layout provided. [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/18776 How to build a SOIC programming clip.]
-===Software===
+=== Software ===
 You need some kind of software to interface with the USB programmer to read or load programs into the Atmel chip.
@@ Line 36: / Line 35: @@
 Different operating systems will have different software available, for more info or at least some info about [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/setup-mac.html Mac look here], for [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/setup-unix.html Unix here]. [http://www.ladyada.net/learn/avr/setup-win.html Windows is quite straightforward.]
-You will at least need '''[http://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/ AVRDUDE]''' (AVR Downloader UploaDEr) to upload and download files to the Atmel chip. It is a command line interface (DOS). If you use Tido's programs then you don't need to compile anything: those programs are ready to be loaded. If you install WinAVR, AVRDUDE will be included. You can also install AVRDUDE separately.
+==== Downloader/Uploader ====
+You will at least need a downloader and uploader to modify the Atmel chip.
+'''[http://www.nongnu.org/avrdude/ AVRDUDE]''' - It is a command line interface (DOS). If you use Tido's programs then you don't need to compile anything: those programs are ready to be loaded. If you install MHV AVR Tools/WinAVR, AVRDUDE will be included. Does not support ATtiny13A, have to use a workaround and pretend it's ATtiny13.
+[http://extremeelectronics.co.in/avr-tutorials/gui-software-for-usbasp-based-usb-avr-programmers/ '''eXtreme Burner - AVR'''] - Or if you do not like AVRDUDE and want something with GUI, you can try eXtreme Burner - AVR, download latest version at the bottom of the page under release. It can read/write (download/upload) and it also has the required driver for USBasp in the installation. If you only want to write a new firmware (already compiled Tido's, DrJones's, ...) this should be all you need. Does support ATtiny13A. Does not seem to write correctly nlite driver though. Either does not understand the hex format or ATtiny13A write support is bad. It reads and erases fine.
-Or if you do not like AVRDUDE and want something with GUI, you can try [http://extremeelectronics.co.in/avr-tutorials/gui-software-for-usbasp-based-usb-avr-programmers/ '''eXtreme Burner - AVR'''], download latest version at the bottom of the page under release. It can read/write (download/upload) and it also has the required driver for USBasp in the installation. If you only want to write a new firmware (already compiled Tido's, DrJones's, ...) this should be all you need.
+==== USBasp Driver ====
 You may also need to install a driver for your '''USBasp'''. I've used the cheap eBay USBasp pictured above ([http://www.fischl.de/usbasp/ a Fischl clone]) and latest driver from [http://sourceforge.net/projects/libusb-win32/ '''libusb-win32''' project]. Should work on all Windows 98 and newer. The software package has a wizard application, connect your USB device, run the wizard, select your connected USBasp and the wizard will generate a driver for that devices for you. Then install the generated driver by running it's installer.
-If you want to customize Tido's programs you will need a C compiler configured to work with AVR equipment. (Some people write AVR programs in assembly language which gives more compact programs, but you are on your own if you go that route.) You have two options: AVR-GCC (bundled in WinAVR, MHV AVR Tools) or AVR Studio.
+==== Compiler ====
+If you want to customize Tido's programs you will need a C compiler configured to work with AVR equipment. (Some people write AVR programs in assembly language which gives more compact programs, but you are on your own if you go that route.) You have one option: AVR-GCC. Either install it with everything you need from MHV AVR Tools (optionally older WinAVR) or install Atmel Studio that contains everything you will need as well apart from AVRDUDE, AVR Studio 6.1 or older can't upload via USBasp and you will need AVRDUDE or other downloader/uploader.
+==== Integrated Development Environments ====
 '''[http://www.atmel.com/tools/atmelstudio.aspx Atmel Studio]''' - Atmel Studio (newer AVR studio, it's been renamed) is available free from Atmel to allow you to write and compile programs and load them. It has a neat interface for some programming boards, but not USBasp (it seems it still can't upload using USBasp without external tool like AVRDUDE), so if you are using USBasp, you will still need AVRDUDE to actually upload the files. The latest version is called Atmel Studio 6 which runs on Windows and uses MS Visual Studio Shell and .NET 4.0 (both installed automatically).
-'''[http://winavr.sourceforge.net/ WinAVR]''' - WinAVR is a free collection of all the software you need as well as a graphical user interface (GUI) to edit, compile, and load programs. [http://www.eclipse.org/downloads/index.php Eclipse IDE for C/C++ Developers] is another free GUI that goes on top of WinAVR (or MHV AVR) and is what Tido uses. It requires a plug-in that allows it to work with AVR. Follow instructions [http://interactive-matter.eu/how-to/developing-software-for-the-atmel-avr-with-avr-eclipse-avr-gcc-avrdude/ here] for installing WinAVR and Eclipse with AVR Eclipse plugin. Eclipse is optional. Then configure Eclipse for AVR. There is also a [http://avr-eclipse.sourceforge.net/wiki/index.php/The_AVR_Eclipse_Plugin Wiki] about Eclipse AVR.
+'''[http://www.eclipse.org/downloads/index.php Eclipse IDE for C/C++ Developers]''' - is a free IDE that goes on top of AVRDUDE and AVR-GCC and is what Tido uses. It requires a plug-in that allows it to work with AVR. Follow instructions [http://interactive-matter.eu/how-to/developing-software-for-the-atmel-avr-with-avr-eclipse-avr-gcc-avrdude/ here] for installing WinAVR and Eclipse with AVR Eclipse plugin. Then configure Eclipse for AVR, [http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-get-started-with-Eclipse-and-AVR/?ALLSTEPS you can see more in this different instructable]. There is also a [http://avr-eclipse.sourceforge.net/wiki/index.php/The_AVR_Eclipse_Plugin Wiki] about Eclipse AVR. '''AVR Eclipse seems to have glitches with latest Eclipse 4.2 Juno, use older Eclipse 3.6 or 3.7 instead'''. AVR Eclipse is again a little out of date. With 4.2 if you enter properties of your project and it wants to open with AVRDUDE settings showing it will not read them and throw you an error window, cancel and open it again, this time it will open with other settings showing and the AVR settings will load properly. I would advise you to get the latest version that AVR Eclipse plugin supports, not necessarily the latest Eclipse unfortunately.
+==== AVRDUDE, GCC, LIBC, ... ====
 '''[http://www.makehackvoid.com/project/mhvavrtools MHV AVR Tools]''' - A WinAVR replacement since WinAVR development is stopped. It has newer AVRDUDE, AVR-GCC and AVR-LIBC along with other packages. It can be used in combination with AVR Eclipse or anywhere else the same way as WinAVR as an external tool like in Atmel Studio to provide AVRDUDE or compiler (AVR-GCC) to the studio.
 [[File:MHV_AVR_Tools_and_Atmel_Studio_6.1_configuration_in_AVR_Eclipse.png|frame|center|MHV AVR Tools and Atmel Studio 6.1 configuration in AVR Eclipse.]]
+'''[http://winavr.sourceforge.net/ WinAVR ''(not developed anymore)'']''' - WinAVR is a free collection of all the software you need as well as a graphical user interface (GUI) to edit, compile, and load programs.
 As with all bundled software and drivers, they may be out of date.
-Right now, MHV AVR Tools seem to be up to date but eXtreme burner AVR has bundled older USBasp driver.
+Right now, MHV AVR Tools seem to be up to date but eXtreme burner AVR has bundled older USBasp driver. WinAVR is completely out of date as is AVR Eclipse plugin.
-If you want tiny code, use optimization for size for your compiler configuration. GCC uses "-Os" and you can find more useful optimizations and tricks via search on AVR Freaks or elsewhere. Sometimes older GCC versions generate smaller code than the newer ones. Atmel uses AVR-GCC in it's toolchain as well, usually an older stable version.
 ===BLF-VLD===
@@ Line 88: / Line 99: @@
 |}
-The programmer is 10 pins however which are set up this way:
+The programmer is 10 pins however which are set up one of two ways.
+Old Style:
 {|class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; width: 400px;"
@@ Line 106: / Line 119: @@
 |}
-[[File:Ribbon.jpg|thumb|The ribbon port at the end is disassembled and wire 8 is moved over to the 9th position]]So Wire 1 (MOSI) of the ribbon cable from the programmer must attach to Pin 5 of the Atmel. Make sure you mark which side of the clip attaches to the top of the Atmel or everything will be misaligned next time you use it. Line up RST and SCK with their appropriate wires. But notice that MISO on the programmer is Wire number 9 and the ribbon only has 8 wires. You will need to disassemble the end of the ribbon cable at the controller end and move wire 8 over to the 9 position so that MISO lines up correctly.
+New Style, for the USBASP V2.0:
+{|class="wikitable" style="text-align: center; width: 400px;"
+|+ AVR Programmer ribbon wires
+|-
+!Pin   !!    Function  !!  Function   !!  Pin
+|-
+|1   ||  '''MOSI'''  ||   VCC   || 2
+|-
+|3   ||  xxx    ||   TXD   || 4
+|-
+|5   ||  '''RST'''   ||   RXD   || 6
+|-
+|7   ||  '''SCK'''   ||   GND  || 8
+|-
+|9   ||  '''MISO'''  ||   '''GND'''  || 10
+|}
+[[File:Ribbon.jpg|thumb|Old Style: The ribbon port at the end is disassembled and wire 8 is moved over to the 9th position]]Old Style: So Wire 1 (MOSI) of the ribbon cable from the programmer must attach to Pin 5 of the Atmel. Make sure you mark which side of the clip attaches to the top of the Atmel or everything will be misaligned next time you use it. Line up RST and SCK with their appropriate wires. But notice that MISO on the programmer is Wire number 9 and the ribbon only has 8 wires. You will need to disassemble the end of the ribbon cable at the controller end and move wire 8 over to the 9 position so that MISO lines up correctly.
 Communication with the Atmel chip is via Serial Peripheral Interface (SPI, see [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serial_Peripheral_Interface_Bus Wikipedia article]) with the ISP programmer a Master and the Atmel on the driver board a Slave. SCK is Serial Clock so they are in sync. The ISP programmer talks on the MOSI line (Master Ouput, Slave Input) while the Atmel talks back on the MISO (Master Input, Slave Output) line. RST is reset.
@@ Line 113: / Line 145: @@
 Now everything is installed and set up. You should be able to plug in your USB programmer with the cable leading to the clip. Attach the clip to the Atmel chip right-side up with at least the 5 critical pins wired correctly.
+Be aware that AVRDUDE does not officially support ATtiny13A and you will be using AVRDUDE with ATtiny13 setting "-p t13" instead of unsupported "-p t13a". The difference I found were lock bits when reading with ATtiny13A with it's proper setting (0xFC) compared to ATtiny13 setting (0x3C), important are the lowest 2 bits so the final lock bits are for both ATtiny13A and ATtiny13 setting reported correctly despite ATtiny13 setting reporting wrongly the higher bits when used on ATtiny13A chip. Otherwise it could work if you know what you're doing. On a typical Nanjg105C both lock bits are set (zeroed, 0xFC) and programming can only be done after chip erase that is automatically done by avrdude when new flash memory is written with -U parameter. That most likely also prevents reading of the original firmware, which can be read but due to lock bits may be read as garbage/nonsense and cannot be used as backup.
 Now open a command window in Windows (or whatever you are in) and typing this command at the C: prompt:
@@ Line 118: / Line 152: @@
    avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -n
-The command above calls up avrdude. "-p t13" means you are talking to an Atmel ATTiny13A chip. "-c usbasp" says you are using the USBASP controller. "-n" means no writing, since we're not actually doing anything yet. With USB, you shouldn't have to enter the port number, but some people have to go find out what port the USB is assigned to and if it is Port 2, they add "-P com2" after usbasp.
+The command above calls up avrdude. "-p t13" means you are talking to an Atmel ATTiny13 chip (but could unofficially work with ATtiny13A as well and most use it so). "-c usbasp" says you are using the USBASP controller. "-n" means no writing, since we're not actually doing anything yet. With USB, you shouldn't have to enter the port number, but some people have to go find out what port the USB is assigned to and if it is Port 2, they add "-P com2" after usbasp.
 The command above should generate a message that the AVR device is initialized and ready to accept instructions. If the connection is not working, you will get something like
@@ Line 152: / Line 186: @@
 ==Download settings==
-Use the software and hardware to download the existing program from the Atmel chip on the flashlight driver. You will need this if your programming doesn't work and you want to reset the driver to how it was originally. Get fuse settings too.
+Use the software and hardware to download the existing program from the Atmel chip on the flashlight driver. You will need this if your programming doesn't work and you want to reset the driver to how it was originally. Get fuse settings too. (Actually it is not clear if getting original settings will do any good at all, so if you need a backup, try NLITE, mentioned in the next section).
 <PRE style="white-space:normal;">avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -Uflash:r:flash-dump.hex:i -Ueeprom:r:eeprom-dump.hex:i -Ulfuse:r:lfuse-dump.hex:i -Uhfuse:r:hfuse-dump.hex:i</PRE>
@@ Line 160: / Line 194: @@
 ==Upload new settings==
-When you upload new settings, you are wiping out the settings that the driver came with (that's why it is good to make a backup as written above). Therefore if there are stars on the back that you have connected to get different mode combinations, that will be ignored (the stars are connected to legs of the Atmel chip that won't be used).
+When you upload new settings, you are wiping out the settings that the driver came with. Therefore if there are stars on the back that you have connected to get different mode combinations, that will be ignored (the stars are connected to legs of the Atmel chip that won't be used). It doesn't seem you can actually install old settings back into the driver. Instead you can install a [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/21465 similar one called NLITE located at BLF]. It is 3- or 4-mode with options for mode memory and order of modes (Low to High or High to Low) based on how the stars are soldered.
 Open a command window in one of the BLF-VLD subdirectories: "Fixed Modes", "Programmable", or "Simple". With everything hooked up, enter this command:
@@ Line 167: / Line 201: @@
 The :w: part of the command tells the programmer to <u>w</u>rite settings from the files for flash memory and eeprom and to set the values of the low and high fuses to the hexadecimal values shown. :a is for automatic file type detection, :m indicates "immediate mode" (use the hex values given).
+Always keep low fuse at 0x7F or lower value to ensure that SPI programming is enabled. Values 0x80 or higher will lock the ATtiny13A and it could only be reset in other more complicated ways.
+=== nlite ===
+<PRE style="white-space:normal;">avrdude -p t13 -c usbasp -u -Uflash:w:nlite.hex:a -Ulfuse:w:0x75:m -Uhfuse:w:0xFF:m</PRE>
+nlite runs 4.8MHz clock, start up 14CK + 4ms, fast PWM at around 18kHz.
+BLF-VLD uses phase correct PWM at 9kHz by default.
+eXtreme burner maybe does not understand nlite.hex file and verification fails, or it can't write correctly ATtiny13A at all. Use AVRdude instead.
 ==Compile your own code==
@@ Line 188: / Line 233: @@
 See [[Modifying BLF-VLD]] for programming notes.
+=== Checking program size ===
+AVR Eclipse and Atmel studio can show you size of the program after compilation. If you want to check it otherwise, use avr-size as shown below.
+<pre>C:\BLF-VLD\Programmable\avr-size -C --mcu=attiny13a BLF-VLD.elf
+AVR Memory Usage
+----------------
+Device: attiny13a
+Program:     968 bytes (94.5% Full)
+(.text + .data + .bootloader)
+Data:         26 bytes (40.6% Full)
+(.data + .bss + .noinit)
+EEPROM:       64 bytes (100.0% Full)
+(.eeprom)</pre>
+<blockquote>The ATtiny13A provides the following features: 1K byte of In-System Programmable Flash, 64 bytes EEPROM, 64 bytes SRAM.</blockquote>
+ATtiny13A maximum:
+* Program: 1024 bytes
+* Data: 64 bytes
+* EEPROM: 64 bytes
+And yes, the same source program will have different machine code size and slightly different machine code when compiled with different options and different versions of AVR-GCC. Original Tido's programmable ELF has a size of Program: 1004 bytes (98.0% Full).
+=== Optimizations ===
+If you want a smaller code, use optimization for size for your compiler configuration. GCC uses "-Os" and you can find more useful optimizations and tricks via search, on [http://www.avrfreaks.net/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=90752 AVR Freaks] or elsewhere. Sometimes older GCC versions generate smaller code than the newer ones. Atmel uses AVR-GCC in it's toolchain as well, and currently it's the same version as in MHV AVR Tools.
+In general:
+* turn off debugging information and capabilities for release version
+* optimize for size with general setting like "-Os"
+* optimize for size with other custom settings
 ==Other Issues==
@@ Line 193: / Line 275: @@
 '''Mode Memory''' Some flashlights will remember the last mode they were in. Often the mode will be remembered after the light is off for a couple of seconds (if it was too short an interval you couldn't change modes by half-pressing the tail clicky to off briefly). But NANJG drivers usually have memory that sets after the light is on for a couple of seconds. When you turn the light off, it will come back on in the last mode, but if the light was on for less than 2 seconds, it will come back on in the next mode. This works pretty well except that if the light is on for a couple of seconds and you want to change modes, you will have to half-press the clicky once and end up in the same memorized mode, and then again to change the mode. The reason for memory to be this way is that when power is cut to the driver, it can't write to its memory. But it is easy for the memory to be written while the light is on and a timer can be used to write to the memory after the light is on for a couple of seconds. In order to get conventional memory, a capacitor would have to be added to hold on to power long enough after the power is turned off for the driver to write to its memory. BLF user sixty545 has done just this, described [http://budgetlightforum.com/node/799?page=3#comment-15453 here].
-'''Low Battery''' The Atmel chip can monitor voltage through its VCC pin, however, the voltage can't be more than 1V. Therefore the battery voltage being directed to the VCC pin must go through a couple of resistors to come down to a readable level. Then the software can have some calibrated values so that the user is warned of a low battery by the brightness dropping or the light flashing periodically.
+'''Low Battery''' The ATtiny chip can not monitor voltage through its VCC pin, however, it can monitor voltage via an ADC input channel pin as long as the voltage is within measurable range of 1.1V internal reference voltage. Therefore the battery voltage must go through a couple of resistors to be divided to a readable level. Then the software can have calibrated values so that the user is warned of a low battery by the brightness dropping or the light flashing periodically. Or do anything else the user wants when low voltage is detected.
+== Drivers ==
+=== Nanjg 105C. ===
+Program capabilities vary between drivers of the same name as every supplier/shop has different versions. Nanjg 105C. exists in two basic models: 2 group selectable by clicking, 4 group selectable by stars. And other are available with various output levels and mode combinations as well as different number of AMC7135s (350 or 380mA versions) that limit maximum output current.
+[[File:Nanjg_105C._600.jpg|frame|center|Nanjg 105C. pin layout and traces with ATtiny13A.]]