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Difference between revisions of "DIY P60"
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Parts: | Parts: | ||
* Empty drop-in. This includes brass pill, reflector, big spring, and little battery spring. | * [[Empty_drop-ins|Empty drop-in]]. This includes brass pill, reflector, big spring, and little battery spring. | ||
* Driver. The circuit board. See [[Popular drivers]] for some examples. Usually includes leads to the LED. | * [[Terminology#driver|Driver]]. The circuit board. See [[Popular drivers]] for some examples. Usually includes leads to the LED. | ||
* LED. Make sure you get one already mounted to an aluminum board, no bigger than 16mm diameter. | * [[Terminology#LED|LED]]. Make sure you get one already mounted to an aluminum board, no bigger than 16mm diameter. | ||
* Isolation disk. Or you can make your own. Keeps the aluminum reflector from making electrical contact with the LED board. | * Isolation disk. Or you can make your own. Keeps the aluminum reflector from making electrical contact with the LED board. | ||
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==Parts== | ==Parts== | ||
[[File:P60-parts.jpg|thumb|400px|P60 parts: Reflector, brass pill, big spring, LED, driver, and little spring]]'''The drop-in''' There are a lot of drop-ins available. Most have an 18mm diameter brass pill (some are aluminum) and come with a big spring that bears against the head of the flashlight and presses the reflector against the glass. With some hosts, you don't need this spring. The drop-in also has a small spring that will be soldered to the bottom of the driver board to make contact with the positive end of the battery. Some driver boards already have a spring there. The biggest difference between drop-ins is the reflector. You can choose smooth (SMO) or orange peel (OP). Smooth usually has a little better throw but may show artifacts or rings in the beam. OP will tend to reduce throw, have a little more spill, and smooth out any beam artifacts. OP is more common, but SMO works fine with XP-G and XM-L | [[File:P60-parts.jpg|thumb|400px|P60 parts: Reflector, brass pill, big spring, LED, driver, and little spring]]'''The drop-in''' There are a lot of drop-ins available. Most have an 18mm diameter brass pill (some are aluminum) and come with a big spring that bears against the head of the flashlight and presses the reflector against the glass. With some hosts, you don't need this spring. The drop-in also has a small spring that will be soldered to the bottom of the driver board to make contact with the positive end of the battery. Some driver boards already have a spring there. The biggest difference between drop-ins is the reflector. You can choose smooth (SMO) or orange peel (OP). Smooth usually has a little better throw but may show artifacts or rings in the beam. OP will tend to reduce throw, have a little more spill, and smooth out any beam artifacts. OP is more common, but SMO works fine with XP-G and XM-L LEDs. The other variable in reflectors is the hole at the bottom for the LED. Many times the hole is 7mm which is big enough for the metal ring around XR-E LEDs, but is also ample for larger die LEDs like MC-E and XM-L (a P7 or SST LED requires an even larger hole). Some reflectors have a smaller hole for XP-E and XP-G LEDs. The shape of the bottom of the LED can be important as well since it will fit over the LED board and connections. | ||
'''LED''' The LED should already be mounted to an aluminum board which will have solder pads for connections to the negative and positive leads from the driver. Unmounted | '''LED''' The LED should already be mounted to an aluminum board which will have solder pads for connections to the negative and positive leads from the driver. Unmounted LEDs can be mounted to a board using reflow soldering, which is more than most people want to deal with. 18mm boards or larger simply won't fit. A 16mm board is a tighter fit and 14mm is about perfect. Smaller boards and square boards are sometimes used as well. The boards usually have indentations in the edge so the board doesn't block the holes where the leads will come up out of the pill. | ||
'''Driver''' The driver should be 17mm in diameter. This is the most common size anyway, but still requires some very tiny soldering joints. The key thing with the driver is that you pick one that will work with the battery voltage you are supplying and with the LED you want to use. Sometimes the leads are already soldered to the driver, which is helpful. There is usually a solder pad marked with a + for the positive lead to the LED. Sometimes the negative to the LED is marked by a -, but not always. Look on discussion boards if you aren't sure. The drivers themselves usually don't have instructions. | '''Driver''' The driver should be 17mm in diameter. This is the most common size anyway, but still requires some very tiny soldering joints. The key thing with the driver is that you pick one that will work with the battery voltage you are supplying and with the LED you want to use. Sometimes the leads are already soldered to the driver, which is helpful. There is usually a solder pad marked with a + for the positive lead to the LED. Sometimes the negative to the LED is marked by a -, but not always. Look on discussion boards if you aren't sure. The drivers themselves usually don't have instructions. | ||
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==Wire the LED== | ==Wire the LED== | ||
[[File:P60-ledwired.jpg|thumb|left|200px|The LED with leads from the driver soldered in place.]]Now you can thread the lead wires up through the holes in the pill. Make sure the red wire is in the hole closest to the | [[File:P60-ledwired.jpg|thumb|left|200px|The LED with leads from the driver soldered in place.]]Now you can thread the lead wires up through the holes in the pill. Make sure the red wire is in the hole closest to the LEDs positive pad and the black one in the hole closer to the negative. You can twist the driver as you get closer to the pill to use up any slack in the leads. Place a little drop of solder on each of the LED pads. While holding the bare end of the lead down to the pad, touch the solder and wire with the soldering iron to get it to stick. The wire should be completely covered, but you don't want this joint to be raised very high or it won't allow the reflector to screw down as far as it should. Make sure the bare ends of the wire are not contacting the aluminum base or you could get a short. Use your DMM to make sure there is no continuity between the positive and negative pads of the LED. | ||
Once this is done, you can test the drop-in by holding the positive end of the battery up to the middle of the driver board and then use a piece of wire to connect the negative end of the battery to the brass pill. The LED should light up. If the driver has modes, you can test whether they are working by breaking contact and then touching the pill again with the wire. If it doesn't work, then check your soldering.<br style="clear:both;"> | Once this is done, you can test the drop-in by holding the positive end of the battery up to the middle of the driver board and then use a piece of wire to connect the negative end of the battery to the brass pill. The LED should light up. If the driver has modes, you can test whether they are working by breaking contact and then touching the pill again with the wire. If it doesn't work, then check your soldering.<br style="clear:both;"> | ||