DIY P60: Difference between revisions
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(Created page with "Building your own custom P60 allows you to pick out whatever LED and driver you want to make a P60 drop-in perfect for you. ==Things you will need== Parts: * Empty drop-in. T...") |
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==Parts== | ==Parts== | ||
'''The drop-in''' There are a lot of drop-ins available. Most have an 18mm diameter brass pill (some are aluminum) and come with a big spring that bears against the head of the flashlight and presses the reflector against the glass. With some hosts, you don't need this spring. The drop-in also has a small spring that will be soldered to the bottom of the driver board to make contact with the positive end of the battery. Some driver boards already have a spring there. The biggest difference between drop-ins is the reflector. You can choose smooth (SMO) or orange peel (OP). Smooth usually has a little better throw but may show artifacts or rings in the beam. OP will tend to reduce throw, have a little more spill, and smooth out any beam artifacts. OP is more common, but SMO works fine with XP-G and XM-L LED's. The other variable in reflectors is the hole at the bottom for the LED. Many times the hole is 7mm which is big enough for the metal ring around XR-E LED's, but is also ample for larger die LED's like MC-E and XM-L (a P7 or SST LED requires an even larger hole). Some reflectors have a smaller hole for XP-E and XP-G LED's. The shape of the bottom of the LED can be important as well since it will fit over the LED board and connections. | [[File:P60-parts.jpg|thumb|400px|P60 parts: Reflector, big spring, LED, driver, and little spring]]'''The drop-in''' There are a lot of drop-ins available. Most have an 18mm diameter brass pill (some are aluminum) and come with a big spring that bears against the head of the flashlight and presses the reflector against the glass. With some hosts, you don't need this spring. The drop-in also has a small spring that will be soldered to the bottom of the driver board to make contact with the positive end of the battery. Some driver boards already have a spring there. The biggest difference between drop-ins is the reflector. You can choose smooth (SMO) or orange peel (OP). Smooth usually has a little better throw but may show artifacts or rings in the beam. OP will tend to reduce throw, have a little more spill, and smooth out any beam artifacts. OP is more common, but SMO works fine with XP-G and XM-L LED's. The other variable in reflectors is the hole at the bottom for the LED. Many times the hole is 7mm which is big enough for the metal ring around XR-E LED's, but is also ample for larger die LED's like MC-E and XM-L (a P7 or SST LED requires an even larger hole). Some reflectors have a smaller hole for XP-E and XP-G LED's. The shape of the bottom of the LED can be important as well since it will fit over the LED board and connections. | ||
'''LED''' The LED should already be mounted to an aluminum board which will have solder pads for connections to the negative and positive leads from the driver. Unmounted LED's can be mounted to a board using reflow soldering, which is more than most people want to deal with. 18mm boards or larger simply won't fit. A 16mm board is a tighter fit and 14mm is about perfect. Smaller boards and square boards are sometimes used as well. The boards usually have indentations in the edge so the board doesn't block the holes where the leads will come up out of the pill. | '''LED''' The LED should already be mounted to an aluminum board which will have solder pads for connections to the negative and positive leads from the driver. Unmounted LED's can be mounted to a board using reflow soldering, which is more than most people want to deal with. 18mm boards or larger simply won't fit. A 16mm board is a tighter fit and 14mm is about perfect. Smaller boards and square boards are sometimes used as well. The boards usually have indentations in the edge so the board doesn't block the holes where the leads will come up out of the pill. | ||
'''Driver''' The driver should be 17mm in diameter. This is the most common size anyway, but still requires some very tiny soldering joints. The key thing with the driver is that you pick one that will work with the battery voltage you are supplying and with the LED you want to use. Sometimes the leads are already soldered to the driver, which is helpful. There is usually a solder pad marked with a + for the positive lead to the LED. Sometimes the negative to the LED is marked by a -, but not always. Look on discussion boards if you aren't sure. The drivers themselves usually don't have instructions. | '''Driver''' The driver should be 17mm in diameter. This is the most common size anyway, but still requires some very tiny soldering joints. The key thing with the driver is that you pick one that will work with the battery voltage you are supplying and with the LED you want to use. Sometimes the leads are already soldered to the driver, which is helpful. There is usually a solder pad marked with a + for the positive lead to the LED. Sometimes the negative to the LED is marked by a -, but not always. Look on discussion boards if you aren't sure. The drivers themselves usually don't have instructions. | ||
==Mount the LED== | |||
The LED needs to be mounted to the brass pill so that the pill can soak up heat produced by the LED. Use a very small amount of thermal adhesive or thermal epoxy to get good contact between the LED board and the brass without any air gaps. But even the best thermal epoxy will get in the way of the heat transfer so use as little as possible. More is not better. An epoxy like Arctic Alumina or Arctic Silver works great, but once it sets it will be impossible to remove the LED without damaging it. A silicone thermal adhesive like Fujik from DealExtreme seems to work fine and can be removed. Some people might choose to use non-adhesive thermal compound instead of adhesive, but then the only thing holding the LED in place is the soldered lead wires and pressure from the reflector. | |||
You want the LED centered on the pill for the best beam quality. You can get it close by eye and then screw a reflector over the LED (don't tighten it all the way down or it could move the LED). If the reflector has a big enough hole you may be able to make adjustments with the reflector in place. Once the LED is centered, you can clamp LED down until the adhesive sets. Use something hollow like a pen cap over the LED so you don't damage the dome. Once the adhesive sets up, check the centering again to make sure it didn't shift. | |||
==Get the driver ready== | |||
[[File:P60-driverdry.jpg|thumb|400px|File the driver down until it fits snugly in the bottom of the pill and file one side flat for easier removal.]]In the picture above you can see the driver still has nubs left over from the production of the circuit board. These need to be filed down so that the driver will fit snugly in the bottom of the pill. It is helpful to file one side of the driver flat so that you can pry the driver out of the pill with a small flat head screwdriver. Test the fit as you file down the nubs. Sometimes drivers run a little large or small. | |||
[[File:P60-leads.jpg|thumb|400px|The driver board with the lead wires soldered in place.]]Next you will need to solder the leads to the driver board. This can be challenging because the board is small and the wires are surface mounted to small pads. It helps to silver the ends of the leads with solder so they will stick better. It may also help to bend the exposed wire ends. It is nice to have some kind of vise to hold the driver and a magnifying lens doesn't hurt either. | |||